Fashion Design Pattern Making
This guide provides a step-by-step approach to creating and adjusting patterns for fashion design, allowing for the development of custom clothing designs. It covers the basics of pattern making from drafting the initial outline to refining the fit.
Step 1: Gather Supplies
Collect all necessary tools and materials including measuring tape, paper for drafting patterns, a ruler, pencils, scissors, and curve rulers.
Step 2: Take Measurements
Measure the body dimensions of the person for whom the clothing is designed. Note the measurements for the bust, waist, hips, and any other specific areas relevant to the design.
Step 3: Draft Pattern
Begin by drafting the basic pattern using the recorded measurements. This involves drawing the outline of the clothing item on the paper, ensuring to add ease and seam allowances.
Step 4: Cut Mock-up
Cut out a mock-up of the design from muslin or a similar, inexpensive fabric. This is done to test the fit and shape of the pattern before cutting the final fabric.
Step 5: Test Fit
Have the wearer try on the mock-up. Observe the fit and note any areas that require adjustment, such as tightness, looseness, or discomfort.
Step 6: Adjust Pattern
Transfer any alterations from the mock-up fitting back onto the paper pattern. Make corrections to any areas of the pattern that did not fit well.
Step 7: Refine Pattern
Once adjustments are made, refine the pattern. This may involve smoothing out lines, adjusting curves, and ensuring that all parts of the pattern will fit together correctly.
Step 8: Finalize Pattern
Confirm that the pattern is accurate by measuring it against the initial dimensions and making any last-minute tweaks. Mark any notches, buttonholes, darts, or other construction details.
Step 9: Transfer to Fabric
Lay the finalized pattern onto your chosen fabric and secure it with weights or pins. Trace the pattern onto the fabric and then cut it out, ready for sewing.
Step 10: Sew Garment
Assemble the fabric pieces according to your pattern guidelines, sewing them together to create the final garment.
General Notes
Seam Allowance
Always include a seam allowance in your patterns to ensure there is enough fabric for sewing the pieces together. The standard seam allowance is usually 5/8 inch (1.6 cm).
Ease
Ease is the extra space in a pattern that allows for body movement. Adjust ease according to the desired fit and fabric characteristics.
Muslin
Muslin, a plain-woven cotton fabric, is commonly used to create test garments, or 'toiles', due to its affordability and workability.
Pattern Storage
After completing your pattern, store it properly by folding or rolling to avoid creases and damage. Label it with the design and size for future reference.