Eco-Printing on Textiles

This playbook describes the steps required to imprint leaf and flower designs onto textiles using eco-printing, an environmentally friendly process that uses natural materials to transfer patterns directly onto fabric.

Step 1: Materials Prep

Gather all necessary materials including natural fabric (like silk or cotton), fresh leaves and flowers, vinegar, a mordant like alum, a large pot for boiling, string, and a rusted iron or copper object to add color variation.

Step 2: Fabric Treatment

Treat the fabric with a mordant to help the natural dyes from the leaves and flowers adhere to the fabric. Soak the fabric in a solution of water and the mordant, following the instructions for the type of mordant you are using.

Step 3: Layout Design

Lay out the fabric on a flat surface, and arrange leaves and flowers onto one half of the fabric to create your desired pattern. Ensure the design is facing inward if folding the fabric, as the side making direct contact with the plants will receive the print.

Step 4: Fabric Folding

Fold the other half of the fabric over the arranged leaves and flowers, sandwiching them. Alternatively, you can roll the fabric around a piece of pipe or a stick, ensuring it is tightly wrapped so that the plant material is in firm contact with the fabric.

Step 5: Binding

Tie the fabric securely with string or use clips to keep the folded fabric in place. The tighter the fabric is bound, the clearer the prints will be.

Step 6: Steaming/Boiling

Wrap the fabric around a rusted iron or copper object to add color variations. Place the rolled or folded fabric in a steamer or a large pot and cover with water. Add a dash of vinegar to the water to help set the colors. Steam or boil for a couple of hours, allowing the natural dyes to transfer.

Step 7: Unwrapping

Once the fabric has cooled down enough to handle, carefully unwrap it and remove the leaves and flowers. You may use tweezers to pick off any bits that are sticking to the fabric.

Step 8: Rinsing

Rinse the fabric under cold water to remove any plant residue and excess dye. Continue to rinse until the water runs clear.

Step 9: Drying

Hang the fabric to dry in a shaded area where it isn't exposed to direct sunlight, which can fade the natural dyes. Once dry, you can iron the fabric to help fix the design.

General Notes

Safety

When handling mordants and boiling textiles, wear gloves and ensure proper ventilation to avoid inhaling fumes.

Fabric Choice

Natural fibers like silk and cotton work best for eco-printing since they tend to absorb plant dyes more readily than synthetic materials.